The Magic Crack
Jumped onto the famous Magic Crack with Will & Joe. Brutal finger work, would have preferred to take axes. Thankfully Will took the crux pitch.






Jumped onto the famous Magic Crack with Will & Joe. Brutal finger work, would have preferred to take axes. Thankfully Will took the crux pitch.
Starting from Islane at the far western end of the Atlas mountains we aimed to complete an un-supported winter traverse of the "Ridge of 100 Peaks" to the Tichka Plateau. A lack of late-season snow had left the route very dry and we spent five hot and tiring days above 3000m. On the morning of the sixth day we were engulfed in a near white-out as we descended to the mountain hamlet of Tigouga from where we hitched back to Marrakech for a well earned tajine (and pizza).
Hot and sunny weather across the UK and a trip to the Roaches for some painfully scraping across Staffordshire grit. Myself and Matt (Cookie) began with a couple of classic Whillans ticks before I fell off some routes and Matt lost part of his nose in a painful dyno.
The original plan was to drive to Skye, but the lure of warm Cornish granite found us quickly down on the south coast (the screws and axes stayed in the car). We spent the day at Bosigran working through some of the lower grade classics including the brilliant Doorpost and Anvil Chorus.
There are many ways up Snowdon. I've climbed or walked almost all of them, but never the Watkin Path. Until today that was!
Our last day of the tour and there was just enough time for one last adventure. We had heard almost by chance of the Tälligrattunnel, a kilometre long shortcut beneath the mountain which would take us to the ski resort and town below. The hut had barely enough signal to allow us to retrieve a likely GPS co-ordinate, but we arrived at the hillside and dug in good faith. Our work was rewarded and soon the entrance revealed itself. The shortcut was ours!